HOLY CRAP!

I CAN'T BELIEVE I FORGOT TO MENTION THAT I CONVINCED A CLERK AT A NATIONAL SITE AND GOT THE CITIZEN'S RATE IN DELHI!!!!! ONLY 5 RUPEES FOR THE TICKET!!!!! AND I GOT ASKED FOR DIRECTIONS ON THE METRO. I PUT THIS ON FACEBOOK AND FORGOT THAT I NEVER SAID IT IN MY BLOG. :) I NEEDED TO SHARE THAT IN ALL CAPS. I FELT CRAZY LEGIT. :)

I will update you all further tomorrow or Sunday. I just got back from a long trip to Pushkar and Tullonia, two very, very different places. It will a good story.

Ok, so it's been way to long, I know. Mauf Kijiye. Forgive me. I have a few good excuses ready for you all, and you can choose your favorite, or just make up a new one, if you'd like. First, two weeks ago, as you saw in my pictures, I went to Delhi for my Midterm break and met with my Hindi teacher from UVA. I stayed with the parents of my teacher's daughter-in-law, a charming and elderly Punjabi couple who fed me far far too much and then when I couldn't eat more fed a little more. I saw the sights of Delhi, and even got taken for an Indian, like 5 times. I even got the citizen's rate a monument or two, and was asked for directions on the metro more times than would seem prudent given my shaky understanding of the Delhi Metro. It was lovely to meet with my teacher and meet two of her sons, their wives and my teacher's two ADORABLE grandchildren, Kabir and Aatish, aged 4 months and 2 years respectively. 

Second, Last week I was sick and then until yesterday I was fighting off some of the unfortunate effects of the medicine I was prescribed.

Class is going well, and we've seen some really interesting movies for our film class. Today we saw the best one we've seen so far - Mirch Masala. totally worth checking it out. It has a really awesome symbolic representation of mirch, or chilis, and nazar, or evil eye. In the film, and evil subedaar, or tax collector, falls for a village woman who refuses his advances. She finds refuge in a mirch masala factory, where she waits out the fallout from the subedaar's anger, until he attacks. Then, she exacts revenge on him by pouring mirch powder into his eyes. The connection her is that mirch is traditionally used to get rid of nazar, which in the movie was brought on by the woman's beauty. So she protects herself by hiding surrounded by mirch, and then physically burns out the mans "nazar capabilities" by chemically destroying his eyes. I was so excited when I saw this while watching the movie, and immediately shared it with the whole class and now all of you. :) They were excited, too, so I hope you will be. Symbol fun. :)

Ok, I'll update more frequently now I'm not ill or traveling, and I hope everyone's doing well!!! I'll see you all in 3.5 weeks!!!!

Pics!!!!!!!

SADARJANG'S TOMB CAN YOU SEE WHY I LOVE IT?!?!

My host family - Laura, the other student, Auntie, then Kalla our host uncle, Nanu and the Tanishka. UNcle Ji wasn't home when I took the picture. We were celebrating Laura's birthday.

Diwaan-e Aam in the Red Fort

An incredibly old Jain Temple in Jaipur.

Drying textiles in Sanganer, which is the traditional industry district in Jaipur.



Diwaan-e Khaas in the Red Fort. Wow. I mean, this is AFTER it was ravaged by the Brits.



Delhi. Aur kya kehun?

I am in Delhi now on my mid-term break for a week, chilling with the world's best Hindi teacher, the wonderful Bimla Ji. I took the morning train here from Jaipur with two other students, and unlike my trip to Udaipur in sleeper class (matlab no AC no nothing very cheap seats), we took advantage of the VERY luxurious Third AC, meaning yes AC, no nothing else. Also, a mirror. It was super exciting, and so cold we went to the door and watched the countryside roll by for a bit. Since the rain has come, everything is so green and beautiful it's hard to describe. It helps that Delhi has been called the greenest capital in the world. It's easy to believe - it has more trees than some forests, and a lot of them are flowering now. I arrived at about 12:30 in Delhi and after a fairly long metro ride to Gurgaon, a technically separate city that is culturally and infrastructurally directly linked to Delhi, I met with my wonderful Hindi teacher, met her family and spent a really wonderful afternoon with two of her sons, their wives and her two grandchildren, who are unbearably cute. Then yesterday I was installed in a guesthouse owned by the parents of Bimla ji's daughter in law, an incredible Punjabi couple who treat me better than could be imagined. After two plates of rice and daal AND bhindi (okra, or as they say her, lady's fingers), Delhi auntie (as I will call her to distinguish her from Jaipur auntie) looked slightly distressed and said "beta, bahut kam khaya hai tumne!", or "My child, you've eaten so little!"We then all spent the afternoon together at the guesthouse, and then I went to bed after an awesome day.

But today was even awesomer. I finally verntured into the city, and really only saw two things, but it took up most of my day anyway - Safdarjang's tomb and Connaught Place. Safdarjang's Tomb is an incredible Mughal tomb, and has been referred to as the "last flicker in the rapidly extinguishing lamp of Mughal architecture in Delhi." It slightly predates the Taj Mahal, and looks almost exactly like it, but in red sandstone (I think? It's definitely red) and minus the minarets. Pics are forthcoming. It was incredibly beautiful and peaceful - almost no one else was there, despite the fact that it is one of the only monuments open on Mondays. Then, on the complete opposite side of the spectrum, Connaught Place is the hotspot in New Delhi for upscale shopping and I mostly walked around and drank a ton of cold coffee, and book-shopped. I am starting to amass a tiny Hindi library - I now have a collection of short stories by Premchand, and one by Narendr Kohli, as well as the first Harry Potter. Bimla ji and a few of the teachers at AIIS have told me that my best bet for a really solid Hindi grad program might be in India, where Hindi Literature is a very well-developed program, and universities such as JNU in Delhi put out some of the most proficient and well-trained graduates in Hind-related fields (education, literature, linguistics, etc) in the world. So obviously, I have to start reading. :)

After a full day in the city, I met up with Bimla Ji and another of her students at the Rajasthan Tourism Development corporation in Bikaner House, where her brother works. The company puts together luxury train tours of Rajasthan, and so ironically in Delhi I was still surrounded with pictures of Jaipur. :) We had samose, chaach lassi and sandwiches, after which we returned to Gurgaon, had tea with Bimla ji's sister, and went out to dinner and we all four ate until we were about to explode. After a few tiny fiascos - (The metro pedestrian gate was locked and my new totally badass India persona jumped the gate, only to become much less badass when my pants ripped (only a little...) and then when I got to my stop, I got lost walking home. A couple I asked directions from were surprised when I spoke to them in Hindi, and replied "Your Hindi is very good. You're not from around here." That made it a little bit less stressful. ) - i did finally reach home, with much help from Delhi auntie and uncle. And now, I need to sleep. It is 12:00 here, and I'm catching the metro at 8:3- to hit up Jama Masjid and the Red Fort! SO EXCITED!!!!!!!!!!!

More updates!

Hey everyone! Not time for much but just another quick update on my life. :)  Things are going crazy well, and class is tough, as always, but still interesting. This weekend we went to Sanganer, where hand block prints and traditional blue pottery is made, which is pretty awesome! And next week I'm headed to Dehli to spend some time with Bimlaji, and then who knows where. :) I have a week break and I'm still trying to decide where to go, but I'm thinking north. Like really north. If you have a suggestion, e-mail me. Maybe Kashmir (Yes, that was for you, Mo). Other than this, class is going pretty normally and life is starting to get into a routine, which is nice.

This weekend, I took a weekend trip to Udaipur, Jaipur's cleaner and vastly more beautiful cousin in the south. It is the seat of the world's longest continuous dynasty, the house of  Mewar, and is situated on mountains surrounding a series of gorgeous man-made lakes. There are ghats everywhere and little bridges the cross the channels connecting the lakes. The City Palace is breathtaking, and is at the highest point in the city, a great example of Rajput architecture. There is still a living Maharana, who no longer lives in the palace. Also, the was a procession of the murtis from the beautiful and historic Jagdish Mundir. The mundirs, or icons, were removed from the temple are carried around the city, stopping to do puja every few yards.  I have to run now for my tutoring, but I'll give more updates later!

Pics! Finally!!!

Ok, so I'm only putting up three pics right now, because it's taking for ever, but here's something to tide you all over. :) Also, I can't figure out how to rotate the last picture. Sorry. :/ Sabeen, maybe you can help?

Tomb at Qutb Minar

Moti Dungri!!! (From our roof)



Me in my blue kurta and some churidar-style pajama!!!!



Oof

Ok, so when they said intensive program, they really weren't kidding, at all. We have had so much to learn and do and study its been ridiculous. I had a whole short story, a two page film reaction (We watched Maasum), and class prep just for today! And the film reaction isn't just "I liked the movie because..." But more like "This film presents interesting conflicts and a difficult social message for a number of reasons..." Yeah, be impressed. :)

But classes are awesome, and I love the teachers. You can tell that they are all vastly overqualified to be teaching us Hindi, but they are awesome at it, continuously positive and helpful, and just all-around nice people.

Tomorrow is my first test, so wish me luck. :)

Last night, my incredibly talented host-sisters, Nainu and Tanishka gave an impromptu song/dance performance, and let me tell you, these girls are TALENTED. Nainu may be one of the best natural singers I have ever heard (Her versions of both Beyonce and Sufi songs put the originals to shame, and the girl's only 11!) and Tanishka dances like Shakira, but better. They are serious performers. :) But not too serious. Having sung and danced their hearts out, they started a game of "Let's steal Matt's stuff and run around the house. For like an hour." Obviously my favorite game. :)

OK, so I need to study, and other than drinking about 16 mango shakes, I haven't done much else in the last few days to write about. This weekend will give me something to right about, for sure, since my housemate and friend/tour-guide Laura is heading to visiting friends in Udaipur. I haven't nearly exhausted all there is to do in Jaipur, so I'm hanging back, and I'm going to do my best to get out and really see the city.

I'll write again soon!!!!!

Wow

Hey Buddies!

Ok, so this entry is going to be about the really awesome stuff I've done so far. Don't be jealous. But I kinda hope you are. :)

First, I have two new favorite places in the world. Birla Mundir, which I just talked about in my last entry, is absolutely amazing. It is enormous and entirely made of white marble. It is incredible beautiful, and is juxtaposed against the imposing, crumbling Moti Dungri Fort which is perched on the hill behind the temple. The terrace in front overlooks the major road in Jaipur, JLN Marg, and at night, when it cools down and people come from the city over for puja, it is basically magical. Music plays from specially designed speakers in the architecture, and little kids run all over the place, and I've been there three times already to enjoy the evening and get a feel for the city.

Secondly, Moti Dungri itself. It is comprised of a beautiful Shiv temple at the top of a massive hill (The Aravali Mountains, in fact), surrounded by a fort in the Scottish style, which, if you've seen Braveheart, you know is impressive. You can't go there anymore, except on Shivratri, a holiday that comes only once a year. Any no one I know has made it through the line to the temple itself. It is shrouded in mystery, supposedly having served as a prison for potential heirs to the Rajasthani throne and the residence of the famous Maharani Devi, widely considered one of the most beautiful women in the world. I don't how much of this is true, as local history here is often blended with lore and culture in a really compelling way.

The third is an all-white marble Jain temple on the top of an even higher hill, totally isolated. You can visit this, and we went late in the evening, just before the temple was closed for the night. The temple was totally empty, and my two friends, our host mamu and I wandered through until we came across an enormous murti (religious statue/icon) and then wandered out to a balcony that overlooked the entire city. I was literally one of the most incredible sights I have ever seen. At the risk of sounding utterly ludicrous, the lights of the city looked like the Milky Way, and we were perched on the edge of a mountain (were tigers are still occasionally spotted) facing the wind and utterly silent.

This has been an amazing experience so far. My Hindi is slowly getting a bit better, but it has definitely fallen through a few times. My understanding is coming along, dhire dhire, but we had a debate today about an article we read, and let me tell you, that was pretty darn difficult. I am slowly but surely building relationships with my host family, and have even gotten them to laugh with a joke in Hindi. (For those of you who speak Hindi/Urdu - My housemate, Laura, was trying to find us some Hindi names with the help of our youngest host sister, Nainu. The whole family was sitting together outside and was joining in the conversation. Laura suddenly suggested Khushbu, and I immediately came back with "Nahin, Badbu," and Aunty Ji almost died laughing. )

I promise pictures are coming, but the combination of the fact that I only get internet at school and the fact that so far everything has been too absorbing to document have made it a bit difficult. But they are coming. Promise.

Love to you all, and a special shout out to all the dads who are reading, and especially my Dad, have a great Father's Day!!!!

Finally here, aka Pahunchke main aap logon ko likh reha hun. :)

Hey buddies!

So, it's been a while since I've posted, and a ton has happened, including one totally awful plane ride - screw you, sleeping pills. You are useless. :( But being here is wonderful! It is, as everyone warned me, incredibly, incredibly hot. It is a bit ridiculous, but I really am adjusting pretty quickly. :) My host family is a totally awesome Rajput family - shout out, Nayaab ;) - and the house is great-  no AC, but coolers-  the Indian answer to climate control, and all marble floors, etc. So far we have not started classesd - we had our class orientation and materials distribution today - it was like Hindi Christmas!!!! The program is intense - 7 pages of writing a week, at 10 page final paper, one oral presentation a week, a Hindi film and debate a week, but it's all very exciting!!!! :)

We spent only a few days in Delhi, but I got to spend a little while in Khan market (where I got two very classy traditional-style long kurtas) and walked arounf the Lodi Gardens twice. We stayed at the Taj ambassador, which all my Desi amigos will know is crazy awesome. all the Taj Hotels are. I got my first mitha paan *betel leaf filled with an assortment of sweet nuts and rose petal and cocnut, chewed for digestion*, and my friend, who ordered it for a few of us said that it was our first time, so kuch khaas hona chahiye - it should be something special, meaning, in turn, that it hardly fit in my mouth.

Then we had a 7 hour bus ride to Jaipur, where after a night at the Arya Niwas Hotel, we were installed with our families and the experience began in earnest. :) I have two host sisters who are totally adorable, and who are, to my delight, very impressed by my Hindi skills. I'm not thrilled, ut I am getting better everyday, slowly but surely. :) 

Last night we went to the mela (fair) near the Ganesh mundir (temple) and Birla Mandir that are within walking distance of my homestay. I got some Hindi posters and got to go into the beautiful, all-marble Birla Mundir.

Well, I have to go now, as class starts tomorrow and I have plenty to get ready, but I hope everyone is doing well, and I can't wait to hear from you all!!!!

Byebye!!!

Pre-Pre-Departure Orientation

Hey Buddies! और नमस्ते!

Ok, so I my OCD might be showing as I've now written two posts on the blog before I've even left the country, but I figure it's best to keep everyone up to date. I am now finishing u my last-minute packing before my departure to Washington, D.C., where I will have my Pre-Departure Orientation (hence the title. :) ), which is essentially a meet-and-greet situation Wednesday afternoon followed by a chance to see D.C. and get to know one another, as far as I can tell. Then, on Thursday we have a full day of lectures and seminars and speakers to prepare us for the trip, and then on Friday, at 2:00 p.m., I am on a flight and outta here! It is all very, very exciting. I have had quit a few adventures already in getting ready for the trip. In the hopes of having extra space in my suitcase for souvenirs and gifts, I got a VERY large new set of luggage, only to find my bag was a whopping 15 pounds over the weight limit. So, I spent my second-to-last evening at home paring down my luggage and sifting through shirts, thinking "How much do I really need 5 t-shirts? Maybe three would do - or maybe I could keep the 5 and drop 3 pairs of socks?" Needless to say, it has been interesting. Now weighing in at a much healthier 49.5 lbs, my suitcase is awaiting departure, next to my hot mess of a carry-on. I really didn't expect packing to be so intense. :/

Anyway, rather than bore you all, I'll cut this post off here, and get back to watching some good, old T.V., a well-deserved break. :)

I can't wait to get going, and I hope you all keep reading and keep in touch!!!!

Later, amigos!

For my Hindi Buddies - मुझे एक हिंदी स्क्रिप्ट ब्लॉगर पर मिली थी और अब मैं आप को हिंदी में लिख सकता हूँ! मैं अपने सफ़र के कारण बहुत ही खुश हूँ, और मैं और इंतज़ार नहीं करना चाहता हूँ!!!! मगर अब मुझे इंतज़ार करना पड़ता  है, इसलिए मैं ब्लॉग पोस्ट्स लिखता रहूँगा. मेरे पोस्ट्स पढ़ते रहिये, और हब सब बहुत जल्दी मिलेंगे!!!

The back story, i.e. Main hindustan ja raha hun!!!!

Okay, so if you're reading this, at this point you know I'm headed to India in just about 2 weeks. I've started this blog so I can share my experiences with my friends and family, and I hope it's enjoyable and interesting for everyone! I'm blogging about my experiences because the Internet connection is unreliable in Jaipur, making Skype nearly impossible to use, and the solid 12 hr time zone difference makes phone calls inconvenient. Of course, I will have e-mail, so anyone who wants to contact me can at mcc4ak@virginia.edu.

I figured I would start blogging a little before I actually get to India so I can explain the trip and do a test run or two of actually writing entries. So, here goes.

In mid-February, I got accepted into a program called the Critical Language Scholarship, which fully finances and organizes intensive language immersion programs in all the Critical Languages, thus designated by the government for their strategic or cultural importance. I have now been studying the Hindi language, spoken  in all its permutations throughout Northern India and Pakistan by roughly 180 million people, for two years now. It has a rich and intensely fascinating past and makes up a part of an equally rich and fascinating culture, and I have been given the opportunity to study it for 10 weeks in the city of Jaipur, in Rajasthan, as state in Northern India.

Jaipur is referred to as "The Pink City" because of the coloring of many of its historical buildings and districts. It is a very old Rajput city, and is very religiously and culturally diverse, being home to large populations of Hindus, Muslims and Jains, among others. It is also well-known for its vegetarian cuisine, which was featured on an episode of Anthony Bourdain's show "No Reservations."

During the course of the trip, I will have the opportunity to visit other parts of the Subcontinent and take part in some very exciting cultural experiences- we will be learning to cook Indian food, we'll wear Indian clothing and even live with a host family for the full 10 weeks. It is billed as an intense immerison program, and so far it sounds like they weren't kidding about that!

So far, I am spending most of my time trying to get ready and keep my cool while I wait for June 8th to roll around, when I head to Washington D.C. for orientation and departure! I can't wait to get going, and I hope everyone enjoys reading my blog as I *attempt* to post in a timely manner. :)

Check out the links below for more information!

http://clscholarship.org/index.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaipur